Cusco Carnival: compadres, comadres, water fights and t'impu

If you travel to Cusco between January and March, there is a good chance you will get wet. Not just from the rain: this is Cusco Carnival, when neighbourhoods, markets and families play with water, talc, streamers and mistura confetti, dance in troupes and eat the heartiest dish of the year, t'impu or puchero. It is a joyful, very local celebration that few travellers know about. This guide explains how it works, which days matter, what to eat and how to enjoy it without trouble.

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How Carnival is organised

According to Cusco's municipal festivals company (EMUFEC) and the Andina news agency, Cusco Carnival runs between January and March in a fixed order:

1. Compadres Thursday: two Thursdays before the main Sunday.
2. Comadres Thursday: the following Thursday, one week before the main Sunday.
3. Main Sunday: the big day of water fights and confetti.
4. Octava or kacharpari: one week later, the farewell Sunday, with a parade on the Plaza de Armas.

Because Carnival depends on the date of Easter, it moves every year.

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Approximate dates for 2027

In 2027 Ash Wednesday falls on 10 February, so following EMUFEC's pattern the dates would be roughly:

• Compadres Thursday: 28 January.
• Comadres Thursday: 4 February.
• Main Sunday: 7 February.
• Kacharpari (octava): 14 February.

We calculated these from the calendar; always confirm the official programme EMUFEC publishes each year.

Compadres and comadres: the satirical dolls

The quirkiest part of Cusco Carnival is the compadre and comadre dolls. Neighbours, offices and markets build them from recycled materials (boxes, bottles, old clothes and shoes) to poke fun at a local character, a colleague or even an official. According to EMUFEC, they are hung at midnight on Wednesday from poles or high places for everyone to see, and the municipality runs a contest for the best ones. The idea is good-humoured satire, not insult.

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The main Sunday: water, talc and mistura

On the main Sunday the games start early. Men and women of all ages throw water, balloons, talc and mistura (coloured paper confetti) at each other, and locals, Peruvian visitors and foreigners often end up playing together. If you go out that day, assume you will get soaked.

• Wear clothes you do not mind ruining and a rain poncho.
• Keep your phone and camera in a waterproof bag.
• If you do not want to play, say so with a smile; most people respect it, but there are no guarantees.

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Kacharpari: the farewell

A week later comes the octava or kacharpari, meaning farewell. There are dances, troupes, games and lots of food. EMUFEC organises a parade on the Plaza de Armas with groups from institutions, markets and neighbourhoods, plus a food festival alongside. In some areas people hold a yunza or cortamonte: a tree decorated with gifts is planted, everyone dances around it and people take turns striking it with a machete until it falls, when the crowd rushes for the gifts.

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What to eat: t'impu, kapchi and frutillada

Carnival is also celebrated at the table. According to EMUFEC and Andina, the seasonal dishes are:

• T'impu or puchero: boiled meats with cabbage, potatoes, moraya (white freeze-dried potato), chickpeas and rice, served with a second plate of sweet potato, peach, pear and cassava, all covered with cabbage leaves.
• Kapchi: a fresh stew of broad beans, potatoes and cheese with milk, sometimes with mushrooms, served with stuffed rocoto pepper and rice.
• Frutillada: a drink of chicha de jora with strawberries, cinnamon and lemon verbena.

T'impu is huge: ideally share it.

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Carnival in the rainy season

Carnival falls in the heart of the rainy season. Expect afternoon downpours, wet streets and some excursions affected by weather. Do high-altitude trips in the morning and keep afternoons for the city and the party. The classic Inca Trail closes every February for maintenance, so if your trip coincides with Carnival, plan Machu Picchu by train.

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Tips to enjoy it

• Keep your passport and money in an inside pocket or at the hotel.
• If you take photos, ask first and be ready for a water balloon in return.
• Go easy on alcohol: beer and frutillada flow freely, and altitude amplifies it.
• Book a central place if you want to walk to the Plaza de Armas.

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Notice: This guide shares advice and recommendations based on research and local experience. Prices, opening hours and rules may change: always check with official sources and operators. Cusco Tips is not responsible for third-party services, bookings or decisions made using these guides; some links are affiliate links (see our affiliate policy).