Trail running in Cusco: running at 3,400 m, nearby routes and how to acclimatise

Cusco, at around 3,400 m, is a fascinating place for trail running: Inca paths, hills with ruins and views of snowy peaks. Many runners use their trip to train at altitude, and some come specifically to prepare for mountain races. But running at this altitude without preparation can be a bad idea. This guide explains how to do it sensibly.

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What altitude does to your running

At 3,400 m there's considerably less oxygen available than at sea level. Your heart rate shoots up with less effort, you tire sooner and recover more slowly. A pace that's comfortable at home can feel exhausting here. That's normal: don't compare yourself with your usual times.

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Acclimatisation

• For the first two or three days, no running: walk, hydrate and sleep well.
• Start with short, gentle jogs on flat ground.
• Increase duration before intensity.
• If you have a severe headache, nausea or dizziness, stop and rest.

Starting in the Sacred Valley, lower than Cusco, makes adapting much easier.

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Around Sacsayhuamán

The hills above the city, around Sacsayhuamán, Cristo Blanco and the paths towards Qenqo, Puca Pucara and Tambomachay, offer dirt tracks and trails with short climbs. Bear in mind that access to the archaeological sites requires a ticket and running isn't allowed inside them.

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The Sacred Valley

The valley has rural tracks and trails between villages and terraces, at lower altitude and with a milder climate. They're ideal for your first runs. The climbs to the Pisac or Ollantaytambo archaeological sites require a ticket and aren't for running.

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Long routes

For acclimatised, experienced runners, trekking routes such as Huchuy Qosqo offer big climbs and spectacular scenery. Plan them as a mountain outing: with water, warm layers and someone who knows where you are.

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A one-week plan

A reasonable progression for fit runners might be: days 1 and 2, walking only; day 3, a gentle 20 to 30-minute jog on the flat; day 4, rest or a walk; day 5, a 40-minute run with a few short climbs; day 6, an easy run; day 7, a slightly longer outing if you feel good. Listen to your body: if your morning resting heart rate is very high or you're sleeping badly, cut back.

Training at altitude

Many athletes value altitude training, but its benefits depend on spending enough time acclimatised and on good planning. For a short trip, think of Cusco as an experience rather than a training camp: enjoy the scenery and don't push it.

Safety

• Run in daylight and, if possible, with company.
• Tell someone your route and return time.
• Carry a charged phone and some cash.
• Avoid isolated areas at dusk.
• Take care on roads: drivers don't expect runners.

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Dogs

Cusco and its villages have many loose dogs, and some chase runners. Slow down or walk as you pass, don't stare at them and, if they come close, stay calm. Crouching as if picking up a stone is usually enough to make them back off.

Weather

In the dry season mornings are cold and the midday sun very strong. In the rainy season trails get muddy and lightning storms are common in the afternoon: run in the morning and avoid exposed ridges.

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Gear

• Trail shoes with good grip.
• A light windproof and a thermal layer.
• Cap, sunglasses and high-factor sunscreen.
• A hydration pack or belt.
• An energy snack.

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Hydration and nutrition

Dry air and altitude dehydrate you quickly. Drink before, during and after running, even if you're not thirsty. Eat some carbohydrates before long runs and avoid alcohol while acclimatising.

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Mountain races

Mountain races and trail events are held in the region at various times of year. If you want to take part, check each organiser's calendar and conditions in advance and arrive with enough time to acclimatise.

Running with respect

Many trails cross community land and fields. Say hello, stay on the paths, close gates and don't disturb livestock. At archaeological sites, follow the rules: no running on walls or terraces.

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