Pumamarca hike from Ollantaytambo: route, timings and tips

Pumamarca is a small Inca complex on a hillside above the Patacancha river valley, about 6 kilometres north of Ollantaytambo. Few tourists make it here, and that's exactly what makes it special: a trail through terraces, irrigation channels and farmhouses that ends at quiet ruins with views over two valleys. It's one of the best day hikes in the Sacred Valley for anyone who is already acclimatised.

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What Pumamarca is

The site stands above the confluence of the Patacancha and Yuracmayo rivers. It's thought to have been a checkpoint controlling access to Ollantaytambo from the highlands. It still has walls, enclosures, storehouses and terraces, with the stone architecture typical of the Inca period. The name is usually translated as "town of the puma".

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The hiking route

From Ollantaytambo you leave along the street that follows the Patacancha river north. The path passes the small community of Munaypata and the Media Luna terraces, then zigzags up the slope. Higher up the trail eases off, crosses streams and follows old water channels until the ruins appear. The final stretch crosses farming terraces, where the path is less obvious.

Distance, elevation and time

• Round trip from Ollantaytambo: about 12 to 13 kilometres.
• Elevation gain: a little over 500 metres.
• Time: 4 to 6 hours in total, depending on pace and stops.
• Difficulty: moderate, with steep sections at the start.

Figures vary by source and by the exact path you take, so treat them as a guide.

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Downhill-only option

For a shorter version, take a taxi or hired vehicle to the community of Pallata, about 20 minutes from Ollantaytambo, walk the last stretch up to the ruins and hike back down to town. Many guided groups do it this way. Agree the transport price before you set off.

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Entry

Different sources say entry has been free at some times and that a small fee has been charged on site at others. Carry some cash in soles just in case. Sometimes a caretaker is there to give information.

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When to go

The best time is the dry season, from May to September. In the rainy season the trail can get muddy and the streams rise. Start early: mornings are cooler, the light is better and you have time before the afternoon clouds.

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What to bring

• At least 1.5 to 2 litres of water per person; there are no shops on the way.
• Sunscreen, a hat and sunglasses.
• Hiking shoes with good grip.
• A warm layer and a light rain jacket.
• Food or snacks.
• Poles if your knees suffer on descents.

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Acclimatisation

Ollantaytambo is at about 2,800 metres, lower than Cusco, which makes it a good place to acclimatise. Even so, the climb is demanding if you've just arrived. Do it after one or two days in the valley and keep a comfortable pace.

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Respect for the communities

The trail crosses farmland and passes houses. Don't walk on crops, close any gates you open, ask before photographing people and take your rubbish with you. You may meet dogs on the way: stay calm and don't run.

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How to combine it

Pumamarca fits well into a two or three-night stay in Ollantaytambo, along with the town's ruins and the Pinkuylluna storehouses. It's also a good warm-up hike before a longer trek or the trip to Machu Picchu, since the train leaves from Ollantaytambo.

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Photography

The best views are from the top of the site, looking over the Patacancha valley and the surrounding mountains. Mid-morning light shows the walls well. On the way down, the terraces and irrigation channels make good farming-landscape photos, especially in the dry season when skies are clear.

With a guide or on your own?

With good navigation and a map, many travellers do it on their own. A local guide adds context about the site and community life, and sorts out the transport logistics. If you go alone, tell your lodging your plan.

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