Coca leaf in Cusco: tea, chewing, altitude sickness and whether you can take it home

As soon as you arrive in Cusco you'll probably be offered a cup of coca tea — at the airport, at hotel reception or at breakfast. Coca leaf is a sacred plant in the Andes, used for thousands of years for work, ritual and social life. For travellers it's also a pleasant local custom and a traditional help against altitude fatigue. But it's worth understanding what it is, what it isn't and its legal limits outside Peru.

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What coca leaf is

Coca is a shrub that grows in the warm valleys on the eastern slopes of the Andes. Its leaves contain small amounts of alkaloids, including the one used to make cocaine, but the natural leaf is very different from that drug: its effect is mild, similar to coffee or tea, with no euphoria. In Peru, traditional use of the leaf is legal and widespread in Andean communities.

A cultural and sacred role

• In communities, chewing coca (chakchar or acullicar) accompanies farm work, long journeys and gatherings.
• Offering and sharing leaves is a gesture of respect and friendship.
• In rituals, carefully chosen leaves are offered in threes (k'intu) to Pachamama and the apus, the sacred mountains.
• Some traditional specialists "read" the leaves to divine the future or diagnose problems.

On treks, horsemen and guides often share coca or make a small offering before crossing a pass.

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How it's used

• Coca tea (mate de coca): leaves steeped in hot water, often with sugar. The most common form for travellers, offered in almost every hotel and restaurant.
• Chewing: several leaves are tucked into the cheek, not fully chewed, with a little llipta (plant ash) to help release the compounds. It's bitter and slightly numbs the mouth.
• Sweets and products: coca sweets, biscuits, flour or liqueurs sold in shops and markets.

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Does it help with altitude sickness?

Coca is traditionally used to ease fatigue, hunger and mild altitude symptoms, and many people say it makes them feel better. However, scientific evidence on preventing altitude sickness is limited. Treat it as a pleasant complement, not a treatment:

• Prevention is based on ascending gradually, resting the first days, drinking water and avoiding alcohol.
• If you have strong symptoms, coca won't fix them: seek medical care and descend if needed.
• If you take altitude medication, ask a doctor about combining it with coca or other stimulants.

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Can I take coca leaves home?

No. Although legal in Peru, coca leaf and most derivatives (including tea and sweets) are banned or controlled in most countries, including Europe, the United States and many others. Carrying it in your luggage can lead to confiscation, fines or serious legal trouble, even as tea bags. Don't take it to other countries on your route either. Enjoy it in Peru and leave it there.

Where to buy it

Coca leaves for tea or chewing are sold in markets such as San Pedro, corner shops and supermarkets, loose or in tea bags. On treks, guides usually carry some. Buy small amounts for your stay.

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Alternatives

If you'd rather skip coca, try muña tea, a minty, digestive Andean herb also offered for altitude discomfort, or chamomile, anise or lemongrass infusions.

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Learn more

Cusco has spaces devoted to the history and uses of coca, and many Andean history museums cover it in their rooms on daily life and religion. It's a good way to understand why this plant matters so much in Andean culture, beyond the stereotypes.

• The best museums in Cusco: which to visit, tickets and how to plan

Before you go

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Notice: This guide shares advice and recommendations based on research and local experience. Prices, opening hours and rules may change: always check with official sources and operators. Cusco Tips is not responsible for third-party services, bookings or decisions made using these guides; some links are affiliate links (see our affiliate policy).