Hiker on a mountain trail in the Peruvian Andes
Adventure sports

Camping in Cusco: where to pitch, what gear to bring and how to handle Andean cold

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Sleeping under the Andean sky, with snowy peaks lit by the moon, is one of the most memorable experiences of a trip to Cusco. Most people who camp do so as part of a multi-day trek, with an agency or independently. But camping above 4,000 m takes preparation: nights are very cold and the terrain remote. This guide covers the essentials.

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Where to camp

The region's big treks involve nights camping: the classic Inca Trail, Salkantay, Lares, Ausangate and Choquequirao. They have regular camping areas, often next to communities that charge a small fee and offer water or basic toilets. Away from the trekking routes there's no network of campsites as in other countries.

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The Inca Trail

On the classic Inca Trail to Machu Picchu you can only camp at authorised campsites and always with a licensed agency; independent camping isn't allowed. Permits sell out months ahead in high season.

With an agency or independent

With an agency, the team of porters or muleteers carries tents and food, sets up camp and cooks. Independently you have more freedom, but you carry everything, need to know the route and sort out water and food. On remote routes such as Ausangate, going with a local guide is the sensible choice if you lack high-mountain experience.

The cold

Above 4,000 m, night temperatures often drop below freezing, especially in the dry season when skies are clear. Waking up to frost on the tent is common. You need a sleeping bag rated below zero, good insulation underneath and thermal clothes to sleep in.

Mountain trick

Fill a bottle with hot water before bed and put it in your sleeping bag.

Gear

  • A wind-resistant tent.
  • A sleeping bag rated below freezing.
  • An insulating sleeping mat.
  • Stove and fuel (buy gas in Cusco: you can't fly with it).
  • Head torch with spare batteries.
  • Layers, hat and gloves.

Cusco has shops renting mountain gear; check the condition of anything you rent carefully.

Food on the trail

If you're going independently, buy light, high-energy food in Cusco: oats, nuts, quinoa, pasta, cheese, chocolate. Villages along the routes have small shops, but with little variety. At high altitude water boils at a lower temperature and cooking takes longer, so plan for more fuel than usual.

Water

There are streams and springs on most routes, but water must be treated: filter, boil or use purification tablets. Near villages and grazing areas the risk of contamination is higher.

Best time of year

The dry season, May to September, is best for camping: less rain, clear skies and very cold nights. In the rainy season campsites get muddy and storms are frequent. February is the wettest month, and the Inca Trail closes that month for maintenance.

Communities and respect

Much of the land where people camp belongs to rural communities. Ask permission if you camp near houses or fields, pay any fees you're told about and don't disturb livestock. Good relations with the neighbours also protect you.

Safety

  • Tell someone your route and return date.
  • Don't camp at the bottom of gullies because of flash-flood risk.
  • Bear altitude in mind: altitude sickness gets worse at night.
  • Carry a first-aid kit and a means of communication if you're going to areas with no signal.

Leave no trace

Take all your rubbish with you, don't light fires where they're not allowed and use the toilets available or bury waste far from water. Cusco's mountains get more and more visitors; looking after campsites is everyone's responsibility.

Camping by lakes

Some treks, such as Ausangate or routes to high mountain lakes, include camps beside glacial lakes. They're spectacular places, but also the coldest and windiest. Pitch your tent sheltered from the wind and away from the shore.

Alternatives

If you want to sleep in nature without carrying gear, glamping in the Sacred Valley offers domes or pods with a bed and comforts. Another option is community lodges on some trekking routes.

Frequently asked questions

Can you camp freely around Cusco?
Trekking routes have regular areas; on the Inca Trail only with an agency at authorised campsites.
How cold is it at night?
Above 4,000 m it usually drops below freezing, especially in the dry season.
Where can I rent gear?
Cusco has shops renting mountain gear.
When is the best time?
The dry season, May to September.

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